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Ashlyn: Cabin fever. BAD. i'm about to say lets jet off to ATL or nashville
Sloan: really?? can we please? i just said those exact same words to my mother i am DYING to get outta this town. (I should add at this point that, despite a Braves game, we have been kicking it in the fabulous 'Ham for approximately 5 consecutive months.)
Ashlyn: you think we could swing it? you know i'm in if you are.
Sloan: well. we'd have to decide where first.
Ashlyn: ha. okay, hm. can we go to n'ville?
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CHEZ LULU
The choice of restaurant was easy: Give a girl French lessons for five years, and she's got a built-in affinity for anything francais, mais oui. We trotted over to Chez Lulu, a bohemian yet refined French cafe tucked into Birmingham's English Village. (Think decor of Grayton Beach's Red Bar with less flip flops and sand, more ballet flats and white table cloths.) Lush reds, walls covered in scrolling-gold frames, and European food: Perfect ambiance for a new 21-year-old and her mama.
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Okay, okay. So while I may be interning in a city where I go to college, let's be honest: You kinda lose the "explorer" habit when sophomore year hits. This summer, I'm going to finally dig into Birmingham like I am a fresh out of the gates traveler. And while I may be no novice to Birmingham, there a a plethora of mossy Shades Creek rocks I have left to unturn. Keep checking back with me--I'm a girl on a mission and I will welcome any and all ideas you have for me!
GILCHRIST'S
I've smugly uttered the following phrase approximately 26 times: "Oh, well I never order the same thing twice." My, my. How cosmopolitan. But alas, as I add years to my life I find some comfort in having my "usual." At my table. In my restaurant.
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Photo: Robbie Caponneto
A 450th birthday calls for some serious celebrating and Pensacola plans to commemorate its founding all year long. The Florida Panhandle city, home to a festive lot of residents well rehearsed in the art of merriment, has planned a slew of events throughout 2009 and in the process remind St. Augustine which city was actually settled first. (See below for the answer.)
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Some people think of Oxford and immediately think of The Square, The Grove, and Ole Miss. For me, Oxford is a bastion of Mississippi culture and great Southern dining. So it disheartens me to report that Yocona River Inn, one of the community's culinary landmarks, was destroyed by fire on on Thursday, March 12.
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The James Beard Foundation recently announced the Semifinalists for the annual James Beard Awards, the Oscars of the food world. And not one, but three Charleston chefs got the nod.
Pictured from left: Chef Aaron Deal of Tristan (nominated for Rising Star Chef of the Year), Chef Sean Brock of McCrady's (Rising Star Chef of the Year and Best Chef: Southeast), and Chef Mike Lata of FIG (Best Chef: Southeast)
Now, Momma taught me it's rude to say, "I told you so." No one likes a know-it-all. But in the February issue of Southern Living,
Read More "Charleston Chefs Get James Beard Award Nominations" »
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Downtown Roswell, Georgia, a suburb about 14 miles north of Atlanta's Buckhead neighborhood, feels much like a little English village. Clockmakers, painters, tidy and cute cottages, the whole bowl of cheerios. Now, as restaurant men with an affinity for country pubs opened Salt Factory, Roswell really feels like Sussex.
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As news of the ice storm and its drastic effects on Kentucky and parts of Arkansas, Missouri, and Tennessee, spread in our offices, the common question was "How can we help?" Over the next days and weeks as a staff and magazine, we'll do everything we can to keep readers and travelers updated on progress in those areas touched by the storms.
In this effort, we ask for your help as well.
As news comes to you, please let us know by posting comments at the bottom of this blog post. What restaurants and grocery stores are open? What community projects are starting up? Where can families find aid and relief? Any pertinent information that people in these areas would benefit by knowing, post it. Also, if you read of any info relevant to your family and friends in these towns, consider calling them and letting them know. With such a storm, internet service is likely down. Sources tells us cell phones are your best bet.
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Sure, Grand Isle is a famous fishing village in South Louisiana that has endured more than its share of hurricane misery, most recently from Gustav. It's also the name of a new dining spot in New Orleans that captures some of the soul of the Lousiana coast in all its funky appeal.
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The towns of Marfa, Alpine, and Marathon embody the far west Texas spirit of wide open possibility. If you react like locals to the almost endless spread of landscape, you'll be on the next plane to El Paso. For some backstory on the assignment and my three trips out west, watch the audio slideshow.
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Even after 100 years of mountain solitude, Balsam Mountain Inn, opened in 1908, remains as tranquil as it is painted white. According to one guest when I visited last fall, the leaves beginning their magic show on the hills, "I just sort of fell in love with the rocking chairs on the porch." Couldn't agree more. An added, and often overlooked, bonus to the driveway-wide porch? The restaurant there is fit for a Carolina king.
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In Atlanta for the Bama-Florida game—the Tebow Blowout—we Crimson Tiders needed to drown some serious sorrows. Destination: Two Urban Licks, a short cab ride away from the scene of disaster.
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Sometimes those little voices in my head offer good advice. I don't know why but while driving to Florida this past fall I bypassed my usual haunts in Montgomery and Ozark, and decided to look for dinner in Dothan. I guess the voices convinced me I needed to try something new. That is, in part, my job as a writer, after all.
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(Photo by Jennifer V. Cole)
Anyone who has read any of my Tales from the Road posts has surely picked up on a theme. From nostalgic musings on bacon grease to recounting a muddy afternoon spent with feisty pigs in a North Carolina pigsty to my ode to Donald Link's Cochon restaurant--when it comes to pork, I'm like a kid in a candy store. Sometimes I even hear angels.
When I found out that Aaron Deal put a new dish on his lunch menu at Tristan that celebrates pork belly, I had to make a pilgrimage. I don't mean to be sacrilegious, but let's just say I was moved by the porcine spirit.
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Houma, Louisiana is true Cajun country, home to some outstanding down-home food. But on a fishing trip a few years ago, I discovered Cristiano's, one of the best restaurants I've visited anywhere in Louisiana. It's a great surprise and worth a drive.
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Tonight (Tuesday, September 2) James Beard-winner John Besh's New Orleans Brasserie Lüke reopens after Hurricane Gustav. Quite a turn-around. It's the first of Besh's four restaurants to turn the lights back on, and it's a good sign for the city post-storm.
Doors open at 5 PM, no reservations are necessary, and guests are invited to walk in at their leisure. The menu will be limited, but shall include some of Lüke’s signature dishes - Lüke Burger with Allen Benton’s Bacon; Carmelized Onions and Emmenthaler Cheese; Pressed Sandwich of Whole Roast “Cochon de Lait” with Cherry Mustard; and Croque Monsieur Croque Madame et Frites with Emmenthaler Cheese.
Also, try the French "75" cocktail. A friend described it as "like kissing a ruddy-faced, blonde-haired boy on the beach." I'll take her word on that one, but i tried it. Perfect summer drink.
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(Bluff-top art, the mighty Mississippi, and the green expanse beyond. Photo by Richard Banks)
I lived 33 of my 44 years in Memphis. Now after eight years away, the city’s culture is still under my finger nails like ribs and sauce, and its music reverberates in my head. When I get back to town, it’s like I can breathe again and I hyperventilate as I can’t stop paying visits to old haunts. Back home after a long weekend, I’m usually spent after days of reconnection and no sleep.
I’m happy to report – in between naps in my office, of course – that a recent trip was no different. The city is as entertaining as ever and the local populace as hospitable as any in the South – both perfect ingredients for a quick weekend escape.
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(Nick’s in the Sticks—secret to some, religion to others.)
If Seats Could Talk
Exactly how long has that stool been anchoring the entrance to Nick’s in the Sticks, the tiny Tuscaloosa landmark of steaks and sports stuff? In our 2 worth-it-all hours of waiting for a table last weekend, the subject had plenty of time to come up.
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(Photo courtesy of Galatoire's Restaurant)
The New York Times published a story this morning about the return of Times-Picayune restaurant reviews for New Orleans, a missing part of the daily since Katrina nearly three years ago. First up for hometown scrutiny: Mr. B's Bistro in the French Quarter. The look in the mirror for NOLA means much more than an extra column in the paper. It means normalcy.
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photos courtesy of Cochon
I see a menu with things like "bacon," "pork belly," and "fried pig's ear," and, friends, I become giddy. I am aware that there are others (bless their hearts) who don't share this enthusiasm. But I'm a little zealous. So when I recently sat down to lunch at Cochon, chef Donald's Link's porcine ode and one of New Orleans' most buzz-worthy restaurants, I whipped out my cell phone to immediately text all of my friends about the feast they were missing. Pork cheeks with a cornbread cake! Oyster and bacon sandwiches! Pork ribs with watermelon pickle! The vegetarians weren't amused. But, my dear carnivores, get thee to the Crescent City.
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(Photos taken by TB)
In the July heat that seems to rush up and down the Mississippi River and hover over New Orleans, I find respite at Hansen's Sno-Bliz on a boring corner of Tchoupotoulis Street. The crowds gather here like someone's golden retriever is telling spiritual secrets. Summer days, the masses line from the corner, stand inside a beaten screen door, and shuffle along the sunflower yellow line leading to Mr. Hansen's handmade, U.S. Patent-ed ice machine. Ten thousand aging photographs tell you the story you are standing in. The people in them testify to how worth it your wait will be.
Read More "Hansen's Sno-Bliz, Not Snowballs, in New Orleans" »
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It's often said that the word "cocktail" originated in New Orleans. That it is derived from the French word coquetier, an egg cup that was used to serve spirited beverages in the Crescent City in the early 19th century. Whether New Orleans is the official home to the "cocktail" or not, a visit to NOLA (as the city's affectionately called) proves, if anything, that they take their drinks seriously. And now, the city has been honored with its own official cocktail--the sazerac. Laissez les bons temps rouler!
Read More "Sazerac Named Official Cocktail of New Orleans" »
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(Image by Jason Langley via Flickr)
Over the next few days, TALES FROM THE ROAD will post musings about one of the South's most treasured towns, New Orleans, the Crescent City of saints, trumpeters, magicians, French Creole recipes, and weatherworn wrought iron. The resurgence is evident to any traveler to NOLA, whether eating barside at Clancey's or strolling down Chartres, catching the streetcar on St. Charles or stopping by the new Musicians' Village.
Even in the summer warmth, there is no city in America quite like New Orleans. So, check in through the weekend to learn where, what, who and why we love this city of endless lagniappes.
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(Photo of Charleston's Beard-winner, Hominy Grill, by Shayna Anne)
Foodie powers-that-be recently announced this year's James Beard Awards, the highest culinary accolade out there, America's meal medal of honor. The shindig, which you can see via pictures on the JB Foundation website, looked to be a real tony affair, with the tops of our nation's restauranteurs/chefs/food writers toasting their love of cuisine. And once again the contingent who call our proud region home showed up bigtime at the celebration.
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In case you missed them, here are the most popular posts for May:
1. Louisiana's Blue Dog Artist
George Rodrigue's Blue Dog paintings and silkcreen prints have nosed their way into our American visual iconography. Rodrigue walks Assistant Travel Editor Taylor Bruce through his latest exhibit with photos and exclusive audio interviews.
2. Blue Spring State Park Marine Life Part I
Is this a face only a mother could love? Apparently not, as sailfin suckermouth catfish (Pterygoplicthys disjunctivus), like the one pictured, are breeding in such numbers they threaten the health of the rivers in which they live. Livings Editor Richard Banks gets up close and personal with this "armored catfish."
3. Wakeboarding - Orlando, Florida
Wakeboarding combines the gravity defying, aerial marvels of gymnastics with the ramps, speed, and whacky jargon of skateboarding. While working on a story on an Orlando-based wakeboarder, Livings Editor Richard Banks visited the Air Nautique Wake Games at the Orlando Watersports Complex and saw first-hand just how incredible the sport is.
4. Ave Maria Grotto in Cullman, Alabama
When I first stumbled upon the Ave Maria Grotto, a vast collection of miniature religious sculptures in Cullman, Alabama, I almost dismissed it as mere Southern kitsch. The "Jerusalem in Miniature," however, deserves a closer look.
5. TPC Sawgrass: Dad Conquered #17
"Good luck on #17."
The valet guys at the Sawgrass Marriott in Ponte Vedra Beach, FL whisper it when you toss them your keys. Our breakfast waitress winked when she said it while dropping off the check. No surprise, really. This is arguably one of the most famous holes in golf, and if you play the Stadium Course at TPC Sawgrass—-home to THE PLAYERS Championship—-it’s the hole that’s stuck in your head from your first swing on the practice range until your final putt on 18.
6. Hotel Monaco Concierge Saves the Day
Associate Travel Editor Jennifer V. Cole prides herself on being a good packer. She should be--she packs and unpacks a suitcase about twice a week. So when she forgot a certain "unmentionable" item on a recent trip to Washington, D.C., it took a hotel concierge willing to go the extra mile to save Cole from days of discomfort.
7. A Tree Growing Straight Through a Truck
A tree grew straight through the passenger side window of this rusted-out 1957 Chevy truck in Providence Canyon State Park in Lumpkin, Georgia. Ironically, at this point removing the truck would do more harm than good to the surrounding park.
8. Sunset Over the Mighty Mississippi
Associate Travel Editor Tanner Latham stood in Natchez--Under The Hill, to be exact--when the sky went pastel as the sun set behind the far banks of the Mississippi River. Cross that bridge, and you'll find yourself in Louisiana. Vidalia.
9. Skippers, Virginia: The Perfect Southern Accent
Associate Travel Editor Tanner Latham grew up in a small town in Alabama. So he has a Southern accent that digs deep or floats shallow, depending on the situation. He thought he knew Southern accents, until he met Lindsey Vincent at the Good Earth Peanut Company while researching a story out last month on the best stops off I-95.
10. Modern Architecture in Nashville
When you think of cutting-edge architecture, Nashville may not be the first city that comes to mind. Designers like Ryan Thewes, however, are making a name for themselves and giving Nashville a splash of unique homes.
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I'm an Alabama fan, so I usually swear under my breath upon hearing "Big Orange," but that's a whole 'nother rant for a whole 'nother blog. (Besides that, I work with too many Tennessee fans who know where I live.) So last week when I stumbled upon Tanner's Big Orange in Greenville, South Carolina, I was immediately taken in by the iconic sign poised like an exclamation point over South Pleasantburg Drive. The giant hot dog did not escape my notice either since I have never been one to turn down nitrates in any form.
Read More "I Don't Care to Say 'Big Orange,' But I'll Drink One Down" »
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(Photo by Lisa Shaw)
If you're on the lookout for a healthy meal, low in saturated fat and cholesterol, I'm afraid I can't recommend the Catfish Landing in Childersburg, Alabama. But if you're in the mood for some solid Southern fried catfish and homemade slaw and hush puppies, check out this quaint little stop on the banks of the Coosa River approximately 35 miles outside Birmingham.
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1. Joe T. Garcia's Mexican Dishes
Stop in for lunch at Joe T. Garcia's Mexican Dishes. Order the chicken-fajitas ($8.50, cash or checks only), and soak up the lively, Old Mexico, cantina-esque atmosphere for which this local institution
is known. Scan the many framed autographed photos of celebrities who've eaten here, such as Tiger Woods, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Bette Midler.
Open for lunch and dinner daily. Find on map.
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We're one month in here at Tales From the Road, and here are the most popular posts for April:
1. Top 5 Paths to Plane Peace
Want to avoid that chatty seat mate on your next flight? Follow Annette Thompson's five tips to ensure a peaceful plane ride.
2. Backstage with Dierks Bentley
Meet country music's "hardest working man" with travel editor Jennifer V. Cole.
3. "World Peace and Bacon Grease!"
In Charleston, South Carolina, (and perhaps elsewhere in the South), "World Peace and Bacon Grease!" as an appropriate salutation. Read Jennifer V. Cole's reflections on returning to life in the South...
4. Comet Ping Pong Wins Best Family Restaurant in D.C.
Check out the best ping-pong pizza restaurant in Washington D.C. and get in a quick round of table tennis while you wait for your (other) table...
5. Decadence in Miniature: Stealing Hotel Shampoo
Don't let all that perfectly usable hotel shampoo go to waste. In an era when traveling with toiletries is a matter of national security, these small 2-3 ounce bottles come in handy.
6. Free Art in Dallas
The only thing better than fine art is free art, and in Dallas, you can appreciate both. Take a walking tour of some of the most creative artwork this Texas hub has to offer.
7. Stuck in the Memphis Airport
So you're stranded in the Memphis Airport, but don't fear. Livings Editor Richard Banks has a tip that will make an unexpected hours-long layover fly by.
8. Forest Fire Razes Talladega Superspeedway...Wait, No
A hazy smoke lingers over the Talladega Speedway on race weekend. A forest fire? No, just thousands of happy, grilling NASCAR fans.
9. Only Pumpkin in the Patch: Middleburg, VA
Meet Pumpkin Lee of Middleburg, Virginia. She's done tack repair work for Olympian equestrians, and she's an only child - the only pumpkin in the patch, so to speak.
10. Birmingham Jazz Legend - Cleveland Eaton
So you missed Jazzfest. Well, if you live anywhere near Birmingham, you can check out this living legend every week.
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(Photographs by Scott Suchman)
In the May 2008 issue of Southern Living, we highlighted an urban chic pizzeria in Washington, D.C., called Comet Ping Pong, where you can get top-notch pies and practice your topspin at one of their three ping pong tables. With great food and a laid-back atmopshere that appeals to 20-something hipsters and Baby Boomers alike, this neighborhood joint is perfect for a Friday night out with the kids and for date night. How many places do you know that fit into both categories? Chuck E. Cheese this is not.
And it seems the District locals agree. Washington City Paper, in its annual "Best of D.C." edition, gives kudos to Comet Ping Pong for Best Family Restaurant. Well-done, Comet.
Here are a few more photos from the restaurant:
Read More "Comet Ping Pong Wins Best Family Restaurant in D.C." »
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Coffeehouses in Nashville go by many names. Breakfast spot. Reading place. Study corner. Freelance headquarters. Depending on the time of day, you'll see bed-head musician, traveling salesperson, and college student all standing in line at various beaneries in every pocket of the Tennessee capitol. As a former resident, I took some time to pass out some faux hardware for what makes each shop pretty special.
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(Photos courtesy of Poe's Tavern.)
Poe would be proud. A namesake palmetto tavern on Sullivans Island, South Carolina, honors its literary past with its ode-to-the-burger menu. But, in true bowing to a brooding poet, its beer selection outnumbers food items. There are no hungry poets on Sullivan's though, save for the last burger on the menu, a bunless patty, aptly named The Starving Artist, topped with your choice of pimiento, garlic blue cheese, or sweet pepper goat. Others to try: the Tell-Tale Heart, Hop Frog, Pit and Pendulum, and, my heart's content, the Annabelle Lee, a crabcake-topped burger wither red pepper remoulade.
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